Thursday 19 March 2015

Opinion: Focusing on American Wheat


American Wheat: Where do I start and how do I brew it?
Preface: Don't you just love opinion pieces? In my second (and limited) edition segment, I focus on things that interest me, then write it down here in the hope it may interest you, the home brewer. No doubt there is plenty of debate with multiple solutions, but this is merely my interpretation, my opinion. After all, it is an opinion piece, right? :-)

Today's update focuses on how to brew an American Wheat. I am a fan of the great American Wheat beer, and they are plentiful over in the US. For me, the easy drinking, smooth quaffability of this style of beer makes it an all-rounder. For Summer, Autumn, Winter or Spring this beer will most certainly bring a smile to your face 

I like the simplicity of American wheat beers, although serving it with lemon is a no-no (in my books). That dislike aside, it was still one of my 'go-to' beers when there was nothing else to drink. The great folk in the US of A do it well, so why not join them? Heck, it inspired me to brew my own, so let's discuss the American Wheat, shall we?

People ask me: what's the difference between an American Wheat and a German Wheat (i.e. Hefeweizen)? Well, the major difference between an American Wheat and German Wheat is the yeast. For a Hefeweizen, a yeast that imparts a banana/clove flavour and aroma is pivotal, whereas an American Wheat uses a neutral yeast that does not impart any flavour and aroma.

The other difference are the hops. Nobles hops are used in German style wheat beers, such as Hallertau or Tettnanger, while the American Wheat commonly focuses on American hops with either fruit-like or citrus-like qualities (e.g. Amarillo, Cascade, Centennial). Granted, you actually can use a noble hop in an American Wheat, which is why I love it so much due to its maneuverability within the style.

Let's kick-off with yeast first up. An example of this? Well, some of the neutral yeasts you could use are Wyeast 1010, WLP001 or even US-05 for an American Wheat. I generally use US-05, only for the fact that I get good, consistent results whatever style I brew when using it.

Granted, you can have fantastic results using other neutral yeasts....and that's OK, too. Choose what you feel comfortable with and run with it. I doubt very much that you will go wrong. It's a good opportunity to see for yourself what your preference is, this way you get to understand each strain. Remember, have fun while you brew. :-)

Another fact about the American Wheat is that there's no law associated with the amount of malted wheat required. In Germany, however, law dictates that at least 50% of the grist has to be malted wheat. So a 60/40 ratio of malted barley and malted wheat (respectively) is no problem. For me, I stick to a 50/50 ratio. It's not set in stone but I would not go anything less than a 60/40 blend.

Just to add a bit of interest to this blog, I actually add a touch of Torrified Wheat to my grist. It's not malted and is "heat treated" in order to get more starches and proteins from it. You don't necessarily have to add this type of wheat to your recipe, but I like to as it adds a fluffy lightness to the beer. Don't add too much, though as it will ruin the style you're trying to achieve. I'd aim for, at most, 5% of the total grist.

Okay, we've talked about malted wheat but what about the other malt: Pale or Pilsner? Well, I'm strictly a Pilsner man. I find it a cleaner finishing malt than that of Pale. If you brew with Pale, go with that. I'd stick to whatever you have 'on-hand' in your house or apartment. If you feel like getting Pilsner, go for it. You will not regret it.

Hops? I'd stick to an Amerian citrus-like hop. For me, I use whatever is in the fridge - and as I like IPAs, lots of citrus-like hops are on-hand. However, hop it lightly with a small 60 minute addition and a generous late addition, say at 5 minutes. The BJCP guidelines say you can use noble hops, which is fine.Just be mindful of the alpha acids of the hop you're using. Remember that it's not an IPA you're hopping, so don't hop the bejesus out of it. The old saying of "a little dab 'ill do ya" (referencing a paint job, I know) is your best option.

In reality, any American style hop that produces a fruit-like or citrus-like aroma will do fine. Personally, I love Centennial, Cascade, Amarillo, Simcoe, Citra, Mosaic...just to name a few. Although I recently brewed an American Wheat with Hallertua hops - of which you read about that and more here.  Either way, pick what hops suits you and be sure to stick to the BJCP guidelines.

Mashing temperature is always interesting, regardless of what beer style you're brewing. For me, I'll tend to stick around the 65C-66C mark for my true-to-style American Wheat beers. I think the balance of the Pilsner and Wheat at that temperature range is perfect. Not too much body, but not too many fermentable sugars. A nice, easy split down the middle should do you fine. Feel free to play around and see what tickles your fancy so you can nail down your own version.

Fermentation temperature is also important, but what part of brewing isn't? This one is probably something you can debate 'til the cows come home. I've found a respectable 18C seems appropriate for my American Wheat beers. Just be mindful of the fact which yeast you are using and ensure your fermentation temperature conforms with its preferred temperature range.


I've said it before and I'll say it again: long primary fermentation is critical. Ferment it for at least ten (10) days, even longer if you can. In a perfect world you would leave it ferment for fourteen (14) days. If you are in a rush and it's only for your house beer tap/s, 10 days is fine. Just remember to take gravity readings before you keg or bottle. That's important.

So to sum up: 
  • Choose a neutral yeast like US-05 or WLP001, or even one that assists in the production of an American Wheat beer, such as Wyeast 1010.
  • A minimum of 60% Pilsner (or Pale) and 40% Wheat (malted) should be your grain bill. . 
  • If you're adventurous like me, add 5% of Torrified Wheat and see how you go, but it is not mandatory. (I'd do this on your second brew, so you know the difference when adding this in)
  • Mash at about 65C-66C, that will suit you just fine. 
  • Use an American hop with citrus-like or fruit-like characteristics. Noble hops are fine, too. 
  • A small 60 minute addition and a generous late addition (say, 5 minutes) is your best bet. 
  • Ferment at a constant 18C, which is perfect. Remember to check with your yeast and see what its optimum temperature range is. 
  • Ferment it out thoroughly, so a minimum of 10 days. Aim for 14 days, if you can. 
 Good luck, have fun!

dannbrew@gmail.com


Thursday 12 March 2015

Opinion: Focusing on India Pale Ale

India Pale Ale: Where to start and how do I brew it?
Preface: Don't you just love opinion pieces? In my (inaugural) limited edition segment, I focus on things that interest me, then write it down here in the hope it may interest you, the home brewer. No doubt there is plenty of debate with multiple solutions, but this is merely my interpretation, my opinion. After all, it is an opinion piece, right? :-)

Today's update focuses on how to brew a good India Pale Ale (IPA) or Imperial IPA/Double IPA. Granted, there's enough information out there to put you to sleep and make your head spin! Still, to try and stop you snoring and getting a headache, I'll also focus on my 'method of madness' in approaching this style of beer. There is a lot to cover, so let's forge ahead and have fun while we learn.

Brewing an IPA can be as straight forward or as difficult as you want. I've come across certain resources over time that have good, solid and reliable information. Mix that information with your burning desire to give things a shot means you'll get a lot out of this and you'll come out a winner, just like me :-)

Let's start off with one book I fully recommend. I found Mitch Steele's research on brewing techniques and recipes (and the evolution of India Pale Ale) to be a great resource for both information on how the IPA come about and general recipe information. I experimented with ingredients mentioned in his book and found that I got better results. I suggest you grab this book and have a read. It is definitely worth your time and effort. 

If there is one person who is knowledgeable on everything, it's Gordon Strong. I've listened to Gordon on many occasions and he allows you to really focus on aspects of a particular style. He really goes into detail of what you need to do and what others expect from a style. He'll give you many ways to approach a style you're brewing, and that is always a great benefit. 

Yep, I'll mention it: Pliny the Elder. I remember hitting the US back in 2010 and trying, for the first time, Pliny the Elder. Words cannot describe how amazing that beer was (and still is). I fully recommend you Google this beer and experiment with the recipe when you brew it.  This beer is very much an inspiration and Vince at Russian River Brewing should stand proud.

A fun way to learn about an IPA is to actually buy the beer and critique it yourself. Ask yourself: was it something I liked? Did I dislike it? Why did I like it? Why didn't I like it? How was it brewed? Could I clone it? Indeed, is there a clone recipe already available to help me learn? Ask all the questions to help you establish what IPA you like, then aim for that style when you brew it. Critique it. Review it. Brew it. That's my motto.

An example of my own inspirations come from both the USA and Australia. Surly Abrasive clearly sticks out in my mind as an extraordinarily light yet hoppy Imperial IPA. Locally, the best Imperial IPA that's touched my lips has to go to Riverside Brewing in North Parramatta. Former Head Brewer, Dave Padden, created the 777 and it has to be one of the best beers in Australia - bar none. 

Both BeerSmith and 'Designing Great Beers' by Ray Daniels are excellent resources. The BeerSmith websites gives you a really good overview of the IPA style and provides some basic information to get you going. In fact, the website is an excellent resource in general for any style. I'd certainly recommend you visit it and support it. 

Although Ray Daniel's 'Designing Great Beers' book is quite advanced, it's worth every penny. It covers the majority of styles and has in-depth discussions on a variety of topics. As such, you cannot ignore this book...even if it means skimming through to the pages that you want to read. Over time you'll get to understand more, so it is worth your time and effort. 

My approach? Well, my love for both the IPA and Imperial IPA is well known. I've managed to get a fantastic base recipe for any occasion and I'll try my best to explain the 'method behind the madness'. Strap up, buckle in and enjoy the ride!

Understanding what each ingredient does to a beer, particularly an IPA or Imperial IPA is crucial. It's important that you choose your ingredients carefully. Get to know your base malts and what they do. Get to know your specialty malts and what they do. Get to know your yeasts and what they do. Get to know your hops and know what they do. Get to know your water, too (although water will not be covered in this blog). 

Start off with a good, neutral yeast. US-05 is an excellent go-to yeast. I predominantly use this in my beers that requires neutrality. I've also been known to use WLP007 Dry English Ale yeast. I came across this yeast back in 2010 when drinking a Surly Furious in Minnesota. Looking at the recipe ingredients back then, the WLP007 yeast popped out. 

Having loved the Surly Furious, how could I not look into using it in my beers? Another to consider is the WLP001 California Ale yeast. I haven't used this personally, but it is yet another trusted neutral yeast strain used by many brewers. Look out for those neutral yeast strains, give them a shot and find the one you prefer. Always have a backup yeast strain on hand, too.

Malt is the next step in my thought process. When I began all grain brewing I used Pale malt, and for quite some time. As I progressed, my brewing needs changed. I turned to Pilsner malt. As it stands, I exclusively now use Pilsner as a base malt in most of my beers. I'm comfortable using it and like the profile it produces. 

Let me be straight with you: I'm not a fan of using Crystal malt. Full stop. Far too many times have I tried an IPA that had Crystal malt in it and wasn't up to par. Yes, I've had examples which were beautifully married in an IPA, but those were few and far between. My suggestion? Munich malt. Munich malt provides that extra malt backbone without the cloying sweetness, which Crystal malt provides and should not be misrepresented as 'malty'. 

Adding too much Munich can kill an IPA or Imperial IPA, in my opinion. The correct amount is crucial. I had to brew with it a few times to get it right. I screwed up a few times, played with it a few more and then nailed it. I think Munich provides a magnificent golden glow and malt backbone to this style.

Mashing is my next train of thought. For me, I use a low 60's Celsius as a general rule of thumb. Given the right percentages of grains to begin with, that low 60's temperature is sufficient. The length of time to mash is probably a sticking point. I've heard only 25 minutes is all that's required. For the sake of not wanting to argue with anyone, a full hour of mashing is what I do.

Going back a bit, the Surly Furious recipe which provided me with the WLP007 yeast also gave me a new malt I hadn't heard of or used: Aromatic. If you've ever drank a Surly Furious then you'll know this is the malt that gives it body. I use it sparingly in this style of beer, but if you get the amount right it'll make a difference.

My next thought process? Hops. This is probably the trickiest of the lot. So many combinations and so many varieties can give you a massive headache. Hops is such a subjective topic that it'd be stupid for me to say what's right and what's not right. What I can tell you is that you need to find this out yourself. 

By 'finding out for yourself', I mean brewing things to learn for yourself. Some of the hops I have learned to love and cherish are the ones I've used for quite some time. I'm always open to trying different things, so be on the lookout for any fruit-like or citrus-like American hops. Be it bitter, flavour or aroma hops make sure you give them a shot. I've been known to use CTZ, Simcoe, Amarillo, Centennial, Cascade, Apollo, Warrior...just to name a few. You can even try out any Australian or New Zealand hop. How awesome would that be? 

Moreover, the hop schedule during the boil is critical. I generally stick to the theme of one early addition bittering hop, one addition of a flavour hop and multiple late hop additions. I'm a believer in halving the flavour addition to that of your bittering addition - but go crazy on the late additions. I'm also a huge fan of dry hopping. That essentially means putting hops in your beer post fermentation. I always add mine to the keg while they are in a hop bag, tied to the dip tube.....prior to transferring the wort to your keg. 

Dry hopping is the best way to get your aroma. For any IPA, dry hopping is mandatory (in my books). Depending on your tolerance, I generally dry hop a beer for at least five to seven (5 to 7) days. I've known others to dry hop again after this for a further five (5) days to increase the intensity of the aroma. I have no doubt it will certainly become more intense!

The amounts of hops you need to use is really up to you. The differences in alpha acids means you'll certainly need to put in some 'hard yards' to figure out what suits you most. That's the beauty of brewing. Play around and see how you go! Granted, there are people out there that use brewing software. I don't care much for that, really. I avoid it. I think I have learned much more by not using it. 

Over time I have come to realise that most of my beers will ferment quite well at the 19C mark. This beer style is no different. What I would strongly suggest, however, is the length in which you ferment. A big beer like an Imperial IPA is worth fermenting for two weeks. Yes, 14 days. I’m a big advocate of long Primary fermentation and no secondary fermentation. The yeast will flocculate out quite well and the beer should clear naturally over time, without the need for clarifying agents.

So to sum up: 
  • Choose a neutral yeast
  • Choose a simple base malt
  • Add a bit more malt backbone to your base malt (I recommend Munich malt)
  • Optional: Add a specialty malt in case you  feel the urge to do something extra
  • Get your malt percentages right 
  • Mash in the low 60's
  • Get your hop additions right (and use the correct percentages)
  • Ferment at 19C for 14 days. 
  • Drink fresh!
  • Repeat until you have your beer down perfectly!
Easy, huh? Well, not quite but at least this gives you the opportunity try new and exciting things in the IPA world of brewing.

Good luck, have fun!

dannbrew@gmail.com


Wednesday 11 March 2015

Vic on the Park, Marrickville: 7th March 2015

Home Brew Competition: 7th March, 2015

The Home Brew Competition for 2015 was held at Vic on the Park in Marrickville, Sydney. Some 32 home brewers from around town gathered with a total of 64 eligible beers to be judged. From 12pm to 5pm the public of Sydney got to witness the fierce (but friendly) competition of who got to be Sydney's best home brewer for 2015. As this was my first year, my only hope was to enjoy the event and have some great fun.
Me and Sam

That fun started when our "brewery entourage" of Sam, Laurie and myself arrived just after 8am to deliver the kegs. Although I was representing myself as Dannastic Brewing, the help of Sam and Laurie was phenomenal. After packing away our kegs in the cold room, off we went to breakfast at Marrickville Metro to kill some time before our 10am setup time.

That 10am start allowed us plenty of time to get the equipment out, set it up and chat to the other home brewers around us. It also gave us an opportunity to sample some of the beers these guys brewed before the 12pm kick-off. I can tell you right now that we were all really, really excited.

Prep time!
The excitmemt somehow passed us by as 12pm came and went. Strangely, the crowd were in but there was still plenty of space to fill. No worries, though. We all knew that the supportive craft beer crowd would turn up in droves and we'd be off our feet in no time. There was a sense of passion and pride around the home brewers about the event and waiting to see how the crowd would react to our beers.

For me, personally, it was just so exciting to be part of the craft beer community and be able to pour my beers. Oh, and each person behind the counter had their Responsible Service of Alcohol accreditation checked, and a wristband had to be worn during the whole day. This was to ensure that the public were being served beer legally and responsibly.

Danntastic Brewing
Talking of responsibility, how about those signs? I had to laugh about the signs that represented each brewer. An A4 piece of paper taped onto the marquee tent? Too funny. Yep, pretty high-tech stuff! Jokes aside, given the fact that each brewer didn't have much space it was appropriate to briefly introduce the brewer name and the beers they had for judging.

An awesome crowd turns up
Those beers being judged were not only by the judges themselves but also the crowd. As they rolled in they were trying our beers at a frenetic pace. It was great to see so many people turn up and enjoy what the 32 home brewers, and 64 beers, had to offer. Of course, this didn't include other beers brewed which didn't form part of the judging - and there were many!

My first token!
As the afternoon wore on, the crowd got larger. By all reports it wasn't as big as last year, but the crowd that turned up was just awesome. Such was the good timing, another awesome thing happened when my friend Deanna arrived to help out behind the counter. Her help was pivotal, and her marketing skills were top-notch! (Note to self: Deanna needs to be part of the marketing group for Dannastic Brewing!)

Stronger than Putin: SOLD OUT!
From my perspective, the 'Stronger than Putin' Imperial IPA was by far the crowd favourite. My aim was to make this the flagship beer for Danntastic Brewing, and it certainly was that. It sold like hot cakes and it made me a very proud home brewer. :-) 

At 8.5%, 'Stronger than Putin' Imperial IPA has the proud backbone of Pilsner, Munich and Aromatic malts. With CTZ, Centennial, Amarillo, Simcoe and Cascade hops, Its golden colour and brilliant balance the judges agreed it was damn good, too, giving it an 8/10 (and just missing out on a top 10 place!).

To self: How many tokens now?
So good, in fact, Stronger than Putin sold out at 4:20pm some 40 minutes before the scheduled close. All 19 litres of it, gone. Let's work that out, shall we? One token allowed you a 210ml glass. So, 90 tokens x 210ml equals 18.9 litres. What I loved about that was the fact people kept on asking for it, right up until 5pm. The sad thing was I had to say it was sold out! Either way, it was simply awesome that the crowd loved it.


Another awesome beer that got good reviews was the 'Wild Coyote' American Wheat at 5%. It took a while for the crowd to appreciate it, but once they did it, too, sold pretty damn well. I'd say it sold well after 3pm, and I almost ran out of that keg too. The people that chatted to me mentioned that this was a refreshing beer and fitted the style of an American Wheat. I deliberately didn't use any American hops and instead used a noble hop: Hallertau. It really seemed to work well, and was well within the BJCP guidelines.

A fan holds the Beetroot!
The 'Square Root' Beetroot IPA at 6.5% wasn't part of the competition, but it got some interesting reviews. It was merely there to provide a bit of a talking point. A beer made from Beetroot? Why not! I brewed it for fun and I wanted to see the crowd reaction. I got good reviews from some, while others didn't try it as they did not like beetroot. Oh well :-)

Simon, Dan, Sam, Ben.
Overall, I absolutely loved it. To interact with the crowd, to be pouring my own beers and to be part of this great event was brilliant. I had fantastic help from Sam, Laurie and Deanna. They were just fantastic and were with me 100% of the way. I guess my challenge now is to come up with: Stronger than Putin V2? Let's see, shall we? Wow, I certainly did enjoy the day and had some fun.

dannbrew@gmail.com