USA 2012-2013: The longest Seattle (Part V)

Seattle ferry terminal

If Seattle could be bottled, you'd label it as the following: Hypnotic. Young. Free. Fun. Rinse. Repeat. If Seattle were an aroma it'd take your breath away in an instant, propelling you on a path of never ending guilt-free joy.  I daydream about cities to live in. Seattle is near the top of my list.

You want to know why Seattle's near the top of my list? Taking a ferry across Puget Sound has to be one of the most relaxing and comfortable feelings you can ever experience. Both Jenny and I were on a mission to experience more of Seattle, and this day was going to be a cracker.

Cheap as chips tickets

Our trip began at Colman Dock in readiness to catch the Seattle to Bremerton ferry. The idea was to catch a ferry, eat and come back. It was a pretty simple idea. So simple, in fact, that we had no other plans. Jenny took the plunge and bought us tickets, which turned out to be cheaper than chips.

Waiting at a ferry terminal isn't exactly what I call exciting, but the anticipation of actually hopping onto a ferry here in Seattle did excite me. Strangely, the fact that I live in Sydney and have hardly ever taken a ferry ride across my own harbour is odd to say the least.

Gorgeous Puget Sound

Still, the opportunity here in Seattle to enjoy the ride with Jenn was something I was looking forward to. The relatively calm waters of Puget Sound, the ever so slight rocking of the ferry and the warmth of light beaming through the windows gave me a sense of happiness. I was somewhat in a zen-like state of ultimate bliss.

My ultimate bliss lasted about sixty minutes as the ferry docked into Bremerton. Jenn and I took in the views, looked around and decided to have a bit of a wander before we ate. Truth be told, we actually knew beforehand where we'd eat; Anthony's. Boy, were we really excited about eating at this place.

Amazing and awesome

I hadn't heard anything about this place, nor Jenn. At least I don't think she told me she knew about this place. Regardless, any lover of seafood on a quick trip across Puget Sound would have to make this their first port of call. I mean, how can you not do this?

As we entered the establishment our server (aka waiter, in Aussie slang) was ready and waiting to show us the table we were going to sit at. The curved windows circling the building, the shaded blinds, the luscious views. Gosh. The restaurant was decked out in superb decor and the staff were immaculately dressed.

Sadly for us, Jenn and I were poorly dressed. We looked like a couple of meth addicts dressed in Old Navy hand-me-downs with a couple of Groupon deals in hand wanting a cheap feed. Dress codes aside, we were both salivating at the mouth and ready to order some food. It wasn't too long before our server gave us a menu and for both Jenn and I to wonder about what great eats we were going to experience next.

Ready to order, Sir?

Of course, before we ate, and as every servers is required to do, we were asked what we'd like to drink. No guessing for what I got. Yes, that's right a lemonade. No you fool! You no listen! You read blog, you not know me already? Me make fun. Fun of you! Hey, I ordered a beer....OK? By the way, that was supposed to be read in an Asian accent.

OK, so I've stopped being condescending to a certain part of our community and am speaking proper Aussie, mate. I ordered a beer, so too Jenn. It was something I had been longing for, apart from the blonde girl that walked by me in those tight, tight.....anyway. I was longing for a hefeweizen. Oh. My. Goodness. Tears fell from my eyes and filled my saucer.

Hefeweizen

It had been a long time (at least a day) since I last tried a hefeweizen. Most interesting, though, was the fact that it was from a brewery I hadn't heard before. Right in front of my eyes was a Silver City Bavarian-style Hefeweizen. Oh Lord. Although only a week or so into my trip to the US this beer was my favourite hefeweizen.

And as I sip my beer, so too does Jenn. She got the Sound Brewery Poundage Porter and was pleased that she did. However, while we were sipping on great beer our eyes were firmly on the food menu. What should we get? So many mouth-watering offerings and tantalising appetisers that it took longer than expected to come to any sort of sane conclusion.

A few more sips later we ordered our meals. Crispy Coconut Prawn Bowl, Clam Chowder, Alaska True Cod 'n Chips and the Alaska Silver Salmon. To. Die. For. Once our meals arrived there was no talking, nothing. You could hear a pin drop. I even forgot to take picture of our meals, apart from the Alaskan Silver Salmon, so in awe I was of the food that arrived on our table. It was a feast fit for a king and queen.

Alaska Silver Salmon

The clam chowder was creamy, chunky, fresh with seafood and melted in your mouth. The salmon was fresh, gorgeous and softly, gently crumbled on my tongue. What a beautiful delight it was. The coconut prawn was to behold. Crunchy, and coated with coconut cream made this final dish the most breath-taking experience.

But could this experience get any better? Yes it could! I had, by this stage, finished my hefeweizen and wanted to try another different beer. The safest bet I could make was to try an IPA. This time it was from Schooner Exact Brewing with a beer called 3-Grid IPA. It is just amazing to know that US breweries really know how to make great IPA's. This was no exception.

3-Grid IPA

The 3-Grid IPA had a golden haze, a citrus aroma and a delicate backbone of malt. It was one of the better IPA beers I had. By this stage both Jenn and I were overwhelmed with happiness in relation to the meal, the service and the drinks on offer. We both agreed that this restaurant got ten out of ten.

Unfortunately, what didn't get ten out of ten was my final beer. I will freely admit that I'm not a fan of Kolsch-style beer, but since I was in the United States of America I had to "grow some" and bite the bullet. I ordered a Hale's Kolsch German Style Ale. My only thought process about this beer was that it was much cleaner than a Pilsner but also lighter and less sweet.

Kolsch

Well, the beer may not have been sweet but our whole experience was certainly that. Sadly for us by the time we had finished our last beers the ferry had arrived back at Bremerton. Our window seat allowed us to time it perfectly so that we could casually walk back to the ferry upon it's arrival.

By the time it arrived it was well and truly becoming darker by the minute. Our trip from Bremerton back to Seattle was approaching dusk, but by the time we hit Seattle it was pitch black. But what a beautiful sight it was. The very first time seeing Seattle at night in the middle of Pugent Sound,

Seattle from Puget Sound at night

 Seriously, had the day of ended right there and then I would have been the happiest man alive. But it didn't end there. Both Jenn and I went back to the hotel where we had Dawn waiting in the wings, after her long day at work. Yes, when the cat was away the mice played!

But Dawn played with us on this next trip, although our decision making wasn't all that great. It was decided a couple of days in advance that we try something new, something different here in Seattle. But what? Looking through the plethora of brochures provided by our hotel both Jenny and Dawn saw something unique.

So unique that I was a little tentative. The decision to go and indoor skydive isn't necessarily my thing to do, but when in Rome you do as the Roman's do. The iFly Seattle indoor skydiving center was something we agreed upon. However, due to Dawn's back problem she was unable to take part in actually flying with us.

Thankfully, being the true team member that she is we all went together to share the experience. There was no way in hell we'd even go if all three of us weren't involved. Sadly, our decision to take a cab ride to Tukwila wasn't the best of ideas. Fifty dollars later, our excitement in attempting to indoor skydive turned sour as the money transferred from our hands to the cab driver's.

Shitting my pants, maybe?

Still, when we entered the building all was pretty much OK. We filled in a few forms, signed our life away (literally) and then prayed to any God listening to three freaks that we were very good people and we don't want to get hurt. Did "God" listen to us? He may of, but he sure as hell made us tremble with fear.

Well, I say fear but it was more anxiousness. Before we could fly we were given a briefing by one of the instructors. It was a simple 10 minute introduction of what he expected, how to line your body up, how to move in the wind tunnel, the hand signals to use and just how to stay safe.

Sage advice, if you ask me. Stay safe. You didn't have to tell me that twice. Funnily enough, putting on all the gear made me feel like a pilot from Top Gun. I had this one-piece suit that gave me freedom in the most important areas. I also had to put in ear plugs, which allowed you to hear absolutely fuck all. Then the helmet, which made me look like a crazed lunatic that had just escaped from the mental institution. Some say I am already that way inclined!

Yours truly flying at iFly, Seattle

Regardless, it was time to fly. Being motioned to step into the wind chamber is like being told to get into the ring with Vitali Klitschko. I was very apprehensive, but I couldn't deny the inevitable. I had to bite the bullet, get in there and have a go.

Approaching the window to the chamber was scary, but remembering the instructions I got from my instructor gave me positive thoughts: trust the wind and simply dive in. That's exactly what I did. Some initial concern aside, it was one of the most coolest things I've ever done.

So cool in fact that our instructor gave us two more opportunities to fly in the wind. Simply amazing. Admittedly, there was one point where I was in such a position (see the photo above) that I couldn't breath through my nose. I'm not sure why, but it ended up that I had to breath through my mouth to actually get oxygen into me. It was the weirdest feeling, but at least I came out of it alive and simply thrilled at having this opportunity.

Jenn and I are 100% certified at iFly

As our three flights completed, we received our iFly certificates, thanked our instructor, took off our Top Gun clothes and went straight to the merchandise shop (not naked, as we did put back on our original clothes!). We couldn't leave without having to purchase a few things, and get directions on how to get back to Seattle without catching a cab.

Strangely, although our day was absolutely fantastic and thrilling that was just the start of it. Our bus ride back to town was a story within itself, but I'll probably tell that to you on another day as that involves another 8 beers that I drank. No wonder Seattle is somewhere I'd love to live. It really is a place near the top of my list.

dannbrew@gmail.com
The Journey continues.....

USA 2012-2013: Underground Tour of Seattle (Part IV)

Seattle before the fire

Bill Speidel's Underground Tour of Seattle is a remarkable story of how one man can change the face of a town. His commitment to saving Seattle's history was pivotal in producing what we now know as the Underground Tour. It has become a growing legacy in which many current and future generations can enjoy. 

Bill had his first tours simply to raise awareness about the destruction of the area. However, in 1965 being concerned that they'd lose the surrounding districts, Bill advertised a tour a few weeks in advance and asked the people of Seattle to "bring a buck" for payment. While Bill only anticipated a couple dozen people on the day of the tour, it just so happened that 550 people flocked Pioneer Square. 

He established there and then that not only was there money to be made but the local interest in preserving the surrounding districts was equally impressive. Five years later in 1970 Pioneer Square become an Historical District. His dream became reality. Thanks to Bill, both Jenny and I had one of the most fascinating tours ever encountered. It was something that we both will never forget.

Oldest building in Seattle

I mean, how can you forget this tour? We had the opportunity to visit the oldest building in Seattle. Built in 1890, one year after The Great Seattle fire of 1889, its construction is the first sign that materials other than wood were being used. It was a sign of things to come for the town of Seattle.

A more intrinsic view of the area focuses back to the 1840's which saw Canada try and push the border south, essentially infiltrating the surrounding areas of the Columbia River, Oregon.  Folks back in Washington D.C didn't really like this so in 1847 congress of the United States created what was called the Donations Land Act.

What that meant was simply this: any American male willing to travel across the country to the Oregon territory would be given 320 acres of land, for free. If, on the other hand, he didn't take any of his kids then he could claim an additional 320 acres, making it a total of 640 acres of land.

So, by sheer force of numbers it was hoped that the Oregon territories would be populated by Americans, therefore, reclaiming it back from those crazy Canadians. It obviously worked. But what didn't work was the "outhouse". Those early days of Seattle really did stink. Most housing was built on top of steep slopes and it wasn't until 1881 when one thousand crappers were installed, which included a sewer line.

Seattle crapper (circa 1881)

While taking a dump was the norm, the sewer lines deposited its contents into the bay. "Tacoma's revenge" was now apparent. The sludge would travel all the way south to Tacoma, some 30 miles, then find its way back to Seattle during high tide. What that meant was the ever increasing build up of the sewer lines, which meant that a mini St. Helen's would erupt next time you released the chain. It really was a shitty ending.

Sadly, that wasn't the only shitty thing. The city couldn't balance its budget. Strangely, the government of Seattle only had two streams of revenue: a gambling tax and a liquor tax. They weren't getting much money into the city coffers. So the government decided what was the most profitable profession out there was and put a tax on it.

But they didn't know what it was. To find out, the city council and mayor sent the people of Seattle a letter asking them to fill out (and send back) an "Occupational Survey". It would help them identify what they did and how much they earned. Upon receiving the surveys there was nothing unusual at first glance. However, further investigation found that approximately 650 young woman replied stating that their profession was "seamstress".

Seamstresses of Seattle

Funny, that. No sewing machines could be found in Seattle. So, with city council scratching their heads a few young men from the council decided to do some "research". Well, after two weeks of "exhaustive research" the young men reported back to the council advising that Seattle had some "great seamstresses". Knowing that this was a money spinner the council brought in what was called the Sewing Machine tax.

At $10 per "seamstress" per month, this tax was a winner, particularly when the ratio of men to women was 11 to 1. Things then got a little bit more serious after the great Seattle fire. A lady named Lou Graham moved from San Francisco where she was an "entertainer". Realistically, she couldn't hold a tune in a bucket.....but boy could she sew.

Since land was cheap in Seattle and with her "sewing" money she saved, Lou buys a lot across from city hall and near the catholic church. She builds on it and owns and operates Madame Lou Graham's House of.....sewing. In no time at all Lou Graham becomes a wealthy individual. The folk in city hall now know about her ability not only to make money, but know she is a very intelligent woman.

So much so, she soon has part ownership in a bank, has a large number of lucrative real estate transactions and amassing a great deal of personal wealth. So, the current council ask Lou if she wouldn't mind sitting in on the council meetings, you know be a financial adviser. Soon enough, she was an actual council member and, thereafter, made some of the most influential decisions in Seattle's history.

Seattle (pre 1889 fire)

Sadly, in 1903 Lou Graham dies. She has no one to pass the money on to. No heirs, no next of kin. Thankfully, Lou was an extremely shrewd businesswoman, and extremely charitable. She had her money in a trust, which to this day pays for public education. An amazing woman that helped the town of Seattle, and continues to help the town of Seattle to the current day.

So ends our day. Amazing, huh? A remarkably fascinating tour of the Underground of Seattle where history shines through with riveting stories. A superb ending to our tour, a superb way to learn a little bit of what Seattle is all about. Thanks to Bill Speidel both Jenny and I have a better understanding of how Seattle was built, raised and grown. It is certainly a legacy Bill can be proud of in educating current and future generations.

dannbrew@gmail.com

The Journey continues.....