USA 2012-2013: Underground Tour of Seattle (Part IV)

Seattle before the fire

Bill Speidel's Underground Tour of Seattle is a remarkable story of how one man can change the face of a town. His commitment to saving Seattle's history was pivotal in producing what we now know as the Underground Tour. It has become a growing legacy in which many current and future generations can enjoy. 

Bill had his first tours simply to raise awareness about the destruction of the area. However, in 1965 being concerned that they'd lose the surrounding districts, Bill advertised a tour a few weeks in advance and asked the people of Seattle to "bring a buck" for payment. While Bill only anticipated a couple dozen people on the day of the tour, it just so happened that 550 people flocked Pioneer Square. 

He established there and then that not only was there money to be made but the local interest in preserving the surrounding districts was equally impressive. Five years later in 1970 Pioneer Square become an Historical District. His dream became reality. Thanks to Bill, both Jenny and I had one of the most fascinating tours ever encountered. It was something that we both will never forget.

Oldest building in Seattle

I mean, how can you forget this tour? We had the opportunity to visit the oldest building in Seattle. Built in 1890, one year after The Great Seattle fire of 1889, its construction is the first sign that materials other than wood were being used. It was a sign of things to come for the town of Seattle.

A more intrinsic view of the area focuses back to the 1840's which saw Canada try and push the border south, essentially infiltrating the surrounding areas of the Columbia River, Oregon.  Folks back in Washington D.C didn't really like this so in 1847 congress of the United States created what was called the Donations Land Act.

What that meant was simply this: any American male willing to travel across the country to the Oregon territory would be given 320 acres of land, for free. If, on the other hand, he didn't take any of his kids then he could claim an additional 320 acres, making it a total of 640 acres of land.

So, by sheer force of numbers it was hoped that the Oregon territories would be populated by Americans, therefore, reclaiming it back from those crazy Canadians. It obviously worked. But what didn't work was the "outhouse". Those early days of Seattle really did stink. Most housing was built on top of steep slopes and it wasn't until 1881 when one thousand crappers were installed, which included a sewer line.

Seattle crapper (circa 1881)

While taking a dump was the norm, the sewer lines deposited its contents into the bay. "Tacoma's revenge" was now apparent. The sludge would travel all the way south to Tacoma, some 30 miles, then find its way back to Seattle during high tide. What that meant was the ever increasing build up of the sewer lines, which meant that a mini St. Helen's would erupt next time you released the chain. It really was a shitty ending.

Sadly, that wasn't the only shitty thing. The city couldn't balance its budget. Strangely, the government of Seattle only had two streams of revenue: a gambling tax and a liquor tax. They weren't getting much money into the city coffers. So the government decided what was the most profitable profession out there was and put a tax on it.

But they didn't know what it was. To find out, the city council and mayor sent the people of Seattle a letter asking them to fill out (and send back) an "Occupational Survey". It would help them identify what they did and how much they earned. Upon receiving the surveys there was nothing unusual at first glance. However, further investigation found that approximately 650 young woman replied stating that their profession was "seamstress".

Seamstresses of Seattle

Funny, that. No sewing machines could be found in Seattle. So, with city council scratching their heads a few young men from the council decided to do some "research". Well, after two weeks of "exhaustive research" the young men reported back to the council advising that Seattle had some "great seamstresses". Knowing that this was a money spinner the council brought in what was called the Sewing Machine tax.

At $10 per "seamstress" per month, this tax was a winner, particularly when the ratio of men to women was 11 to 1. Things then got a little bit more serious after the great Seattle fire. A lady named Lou Graham moved from San Francisco where she was an "entertainer". Realistically, she couldn't hold a tune in a bucket.....but boy could she sew.

Since land was cheap in Seattle and with her "sewing" money she saved, Lou buys a lot across from city hall and near the catholic church. She builds on it and owns and operates Madame Lou Graham's House of.....sewing. In no time at all Lou Graham becomes a wealthy individual. The folk in city hall now know about her ability not only to make money, but know she is a very intelligent woman.

So much so, she soon has part ownership in a bank, has a large number of lucrative real estate transactions and amassing a great deal of personal wealth. So, the current council ask Lou if she wouldn't mind sitting in on the council meetings, you know be a financial adviser. Soon enough, she was an actual council member and, thereafter, made some of the most influential decisions in Seattle's history.

Seattle (pre 1889 fire)

Sadly, in 1903 Lou Graham dies. She has no one to pass the money on to. No heirs, no next of kin. Thankfully, Lou was an extremely shrewd businesswoman, and extremely charitable. She had her money in a trust, which to this day pays for public education. An amazing woman that helped the town of Seattle, and continues to help the town of Seattle to the current day.

So ends our day. Amazing, huh? A remarkably fascinating tour of the Underground of Seattle where history shines through with riveting stories. A superb ending to our tour, a superb way to learn a little bit of what Seattle is all about. Thanks to Bill Speidel both Jenny and I have a better understanding of how Seattle was built, raised and grown. It is certainly a legacy Bill can be proud of in educating current and future generations.

dannbrew@gmail.com

The Journey continues.....